Sunday, April 25, 2010

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Monte Rosa east face - Marinelli Couloir

Finally This winter was filed with the Flo and me still a joint ski trip out. With Pedro and it was still in common was being discussed various goals. After Edi's and Arne's report from the Monte Rosa east face a few days, sounded quite promising, we were on our way to Macugnaga. Arrived there in the evening - rain ... Cloudy:
in the morning. Oh great, as the Weather was again plenty wrong! But even as the morning turned out that it was only the clouds in the valley. So off you go!
Thanks to the trail went straight from the car park with skiing going on - against the east wall.
's just one of east side - plenty of hot Wurds then trying to climb Marinelli bivouac.
With the ski to the door - so fine, we would not have thought. Now we first stood before a foul and culinary afternoon :-)
unfortunately came from lunch the first clouds of mist - and as a result it looked more like cumulus clouds come out as to ... Looked as the best mountain weather like?? But the tape was a clear night and the best weather the next day ... Rather then from the cottage, beautifully cooked with tomato soup first, then chicken with pasta in a cream sauce, rice with beef Balkans and as dessert a mousse au chocolat. IT CAN live it - with Katadyn :-)
To 2am the Mitternachtsmahl was made up - almost as varied as the dinner. Wining and we were well looked after. And all the clouds were gone :-)
You had to be careful at night gestapfe: Do not fall asleep at the monotony of Hinterherstapfens. But the latest tracks we went again ...
somewhere above the back-Imseng a break ...
When choosing the right gutters much the wrong choice on the. We arrived a little above the silver saddle out by a somewhat steeper channel. Even if the channel along the Ostpfeilers the Dufour peak looks as if it runs in the rocks - it deceives ;-)
on time after 5 hours of hand blow came on the ridge - with a slightly weary of the Haxn 1400hm Gestapfe ...
Free Rider vs. Alpinist - View from the Dufour on Flo and Pedro. I wanted to give me the trip to the summit yet. Who knows when you're up here is coming back!?
Flo at the start: from the silver saddle we now expect full-on schedule :-) 3200HM departure at 8:30 clock went off - even before the snake emerges from the Zermatt side, which is already raufschlängelten below.
The left channel goes directly to the silver saddle, raufgestapft we are the Mean ... Although we had
for the departure is not necessarily the best conditions, compensate for the tremendous atmosphere but the east wall!
Soon after that we dipped in the early fog. With reduced visibility and heavy snow, we were looking through us. 500HM After we came back out here and the sun had already provided full employment. Short on bivouac over, packed to the filed cases and more equal the valley, as long as it still is doing so well.
at 10am then at the car park at Cappo and beer to celebrate the day ...

Facts
Monte Rosa east face - Marinelli Couloir [2100hm, 35-55 °]
Wallis

Very impressive wall - has perhaps the highest wall of the Alps in itself?? No matter the route, with or without skis - this trip is definitely worth it. And if you're early enough to turn right time of year, the risk for such a tour has quite limited. Coronation is still the ski run, which is at the top and next to the seracs steepest. The rest is then just huge in the Haxn.

Only a few (mostly known) tips:
  • early turn be: both in the ascent to the bivouac and for the rest! I think, at the latest should be - depending on the season / weather - be up to 10h, respectively, the departure at 9 - 10am started!
    seems to be not always as clear as we had lunch at the bivouac are down to 12 pm, four of the gutter. If they had been tuned at least 5min later they had finished the descent of the avalanche ...
  • Marinelli bivouac: Gas stove and above. Pots, bowls, fire, candles, bacon, beer and (noch. ..). For either bring your own cutlery and washing up liquid.
    blankets, mattresses Gibts plentiful - for some people. Where can be a light sleeping bag more comfortable in the damp blankets.
  • Verflixte Heli-skiing: Unfortunately, there is enough here lazy who want to boast with the departure and fly up to leave. The land generally around 9am - another reason to be before the departure to start up or ;-)
  • We tested's: in unstable weather formed soon sustainable clouds - just the info ;-)
  • One can Couloir even without going down to the bivouac just leave. Bottom out then cross right through the short break. This is not better keep things in the cabin, but after crossing the deposit into the couloir.
  • Our Hours planning:
    - Macugnaga -> Marinelli bivouac 4h
    - Bivouac -> Silver Saddle: 5h + 0.5h trip Dufourspitze
    - Downhill silver saddle -> Parking: 1.5h
  • A little conjecture: Season ideal for a descent could be the end of March / April, provided no bare passages. May be more likely worse again -> "rotten" snow. Then in June tends to be equal - but stop wearing ski with a lot of connected ... gives a detailed description
's here.

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